48 Hours in Naples: Pizza, Palaces and Hidden Alleys Under Vesuvius
Naples isn’t a city that gently welcomes you in — it grabs you by the collar and pulls you straight into the chaos. It’s loud, raw, unpredictable — and completely unforgettable. Horns blare, scooters dart between crumbling facades, and there’s always something sizzling on a street corner. This is the birthplace of pizza, after all — a city that doesn’t just feed you, it feels like a full-body experience.
Set between the looming presence of Mount Vesuvius and the glittering curve of the Bay of Naples, the city wears its contradictions proudly. Baroque palaces sit beside peeling paint and street art. Ancient ruins rest beneath busy modern streets. And while it may lack the polish of Rome or the postcard prettiness of Florence, Naples makes up for it with soul.
In 48 hours, you won’t tame Naples — but you will taste its rhythm. From underground tours and UNESCO churches to pizza joints older than your grandparents, this two-day itinerary will help you dive into the grit, the grandeur and the glorious unpredictability of Italy’s most misunderstood city.
About Naples
Naples is a city of extremes — geographically, historically, and culturally. Perched on the Tyrrhenian Sea in southern Italy, it sits in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, one of Europe’s most infamous volcanoes. This volatile landscape has shaped the city’s story since antiquity, from catastrophic eruptions to fertile soils that feed its rich culinary traditions.
Founded in the 8th century BCE by Greek settlers as Neápolis, Naples became a thriving port and intellectual hub long before Rome rose to power. Under Roman rule, it retained a distinct Greek character — Cicero, Virgil and Nero all visited, drawn by its villas, libraries and thermal baths. Just across the bay, the towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum served as elite Roman playgrounds, until Vesuvius buried them in 79 CE — a sobering reminder of nature’s dominance.
Fast forward through centuries of conquests — Byzantines, Normans, Spanish Bourbons — and Naples became the capital of its own kingdom and one of Europe’s largest cities by the 18th century. That legacy still echoes through its streets: grand opera houses, crumbling palazzi, and underground catacombs all whisper of a layered past.
But Naples today isn’t a museum — it’s fiercely alive. The street scenes are theatrical, the energy unfiltered. It's a city where saints and soccer stars are equally revered, where sacred shrines share walls with spray-painted murals of Diego Maradona. The city’s authenticity lies in this collision of reverence and rebellion, elegance and chaos.
And though many travellers treat it as a springboard to the Amalfi Coast or Capri, Naples rewards those who linger. In just 48 hours, you can peel back centuries, bite into the world’s best pizza, and discover a side of Italy that’s often overlooked — but never forgotten.
Mount Vesuvius.
Day One: Espresso, Underground Secrets and Naples After Dark
Morning: Coffee, Castles and Piazza Life
Start your day the Neapolitan way — standing at the marble counter of Caffè Gambrinus, just steps from Piazza del Plebiscito. Open since 1860, it’s more than just a café; it’s a cultural institution. Order an espresso (short and strong) or go for a caffè alla nocciola — a rich hazelnut cream coffee that’s practically dessert. Sip it slowly if you must, but know the locals will have downed theirs in under ten seconds.
From here, take a stroll through Piazza del Plebiscito, Naples’ grandest public square, framed by the Royal Palace and the colonnaded Church of San Francesco di Paola. It’s often quiet in the morning — a rare moment of space and calm before the city erupts into motion.
Head next to the Royal Palace of Naples, once the seat of the Bourbon kings. The interiors are a study in southern Italian opulence — think frescoed ceilings, velvet-draped thrones, and panoramic views across the bay. The palace façade also features statues of the rulers of Naples through the ages, from Norman kings to Spanish viceroys — a quick visual primer on the city’s layered past.
From here, walk down to the seafront for a visit to Castel dell’Ovo, Naples’ oldest standing fortification, built on the tiny island of Megaride. The name means “Egg Castle,” drawn from a legend that the poet Virgil buried a magical egg beneath the fortress — if broken, Naples would fall. Whether myth or not, the castle offers panoramic views of the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius and Capri in the distance — a perfect way to orient yourself in the city.
If you’re peckish already (it happens), grab a quick sfogliatella riccia from a nearby pasticceria. These flaky, shell-shaped pastries filled with sweetened ricotta are best enjoyed warm — and crumbly chaos is part of the fun.
Lunch: Seaside Pizza Pilgrimage
No trip to Naples is complete without a proper pizza pilgrimage, and lunchtime is prime time to taste the dish where it all began. Head straight to L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele — the no-frills institution that’s been serving up just two kinds of pizza (Margherita and Marinara) since 1870. It’s cash-only, famously busy, and entirely worth the queue. If you’re pressed for time or crowds are intense, try the takeaway counter and enjoy your pizza on a bench nearby.
Prefer somewhere with a view? Walk a few blocks to Sorbillo on Via Partenope, where you can get Neapolitan classics with a sea breeze and a front-row seat to the bay.
World Locals Tip: Skip the overstuffed menus and look for pizzerias using traditional wood-fired ovens (forno a legna) and certified ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. Simplicity wins here.
Wash it all down with a chilled Peroni or a local craft brew if you're into beer, and don’t be surprised if lunch turns into an accidental hour-long event. This is Naples, after all — slowing down is part of the itinerary.
Afternoon: Underground Naples and Sweet Streets
Naples isn’t just a city — it’s a labyrinth. And nowhere is that more literal than Napoli Sotterranea, a 40-metre descent into the city’s ancient underbelly. This guided tour takes you through a maze of Greco-Roman tunnels, cisterns and WWII shelters carved from volcanic tuff. You’ll walk through narrow passageways barely wide enough for your shoulders, duck into ancient aqueducts, and learn how this city has always lived on — and under — itself.
World Locals Tip: Wear comfortable shoes and bring a light jacket — the temperature drops underground, even in summer. Tours are available in English and Italian and usually run every hour.
Back above ground, it’s time for a well-earned treat. Walk back toward Via dei Tribunali, one of the city’s most vibrant streets, and stop at Pintauro, home to what many locals call the best sfogliatella in Naples. You’ll find two types: riccia (crispy) and frolla (shortcrust). Try both — this is field research.
As you wander, keep your eyes peeled for unexpected art: shrines to the Virgin Mary tucked into alleyways, murals of Diego Maradona, and fortune tellers reading cards on folding chairs. This is Naples at its most theatrical — loud, colourful, and full of life.
If you’re a fan of churches, pop into Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, which hides an ornate Baroque interior behind a fortress-like façade. Or simply wander the side streets — no map, no rush. Naples rewards curiosity.
Evening: Aperitivo and Alleyway Energy
As the golden hour rolls in, head toward the elegant Chiaia district for aperitivo. This is Naples’ more refined side — leafy boulevards, Art Nouveau balconies, and stylish locals spilling out of wine bars. Grab a table at Barril or Cantine Sociali and order a glass of Falanghina or a classic spritz paired with local nibbles. You’ve earned it.
From here, make your way back into the historic centre as the sky darkens and the streets come alive. Spaccanapoli, the narrow artery that slices through the old town, is buzzing with energy in the evening. You’ll hear street musicians, scooters zipping past, the smell of garlic and dough in the air — the whole city feels like it’s gathered here for a nightly performance.
For dinner, embrace the local chaos at Trattoria Da Nennella in the Spanish Quarter. It’s not fine dining — and that’s the point. Waiters sing, plates clatter, and you might be handed a plastic cup of wine before you even sit down. The menu changes daily but expect hearty Neapolitan fare: fried pasta, meatballs, and dishes your nonna (if you had one) would approve of.
Prefer something quieter? Opt for La Locanda Gesù Vecchio for a more intimate setting with classic dishes like gnocchi alla sorrentina or linguine alle vongole.
Round off the night with a late stroll down the Lungomare, Naples’ sweeping seaside promenade. Views of the castle, Mount Vesuvius, and the flickering lights of boats in the bay — it’s cinematic, and the perfect way to unwind after a full first day.
Napes Historic Centre.
Day Two: Culture, Views and Local Flavours
Morning: Art, Archaeology and Espresso
Begin your second day with a quick cornetto and espresso at Gran Caffè La Caffettiera, a stylish spot just off Piazza dei Martiri, then make your way to one of the most important cultural stops in Naples: the Museo Archeologico Nazionale.
This museum holds one of the world’s greatest collections of Greco-Roman antiquities — including mosaics, frescoes and artefacts excavated from Pompeii and Herculaneum. The Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto), once hidden from public view due to its explicit Roman erotica, is now open and offers a fascinating (and slightly cheeky) insight into ancient attitudes.
World Locals Tip: Arrive early to avoid tour groups. If you’re short on time, prioritise the Pompeii collection — it gives powerful context if you plan to visit the ruins later.
If you’re in the mood for more, take a taxi or short bus ride to the Capodimonte Museum, housed in a former royal palace atop a leafy hill. It’s home to Caravaggio’s The Flagellation of Christ, works by Titian, Raphael and more — and far fewer crowds.
Prefer to keep things light? Wander the Villa Floridiana Gardens in Vomero for greenery, sea views and a peaceful start to the day.
Lunch: Markets, Street Food and Local Flavours
Skip the sit-down spot and go straight to where Neapolitans really eat — the street. Start at Pignasecca Market, the city’s oldest and most atmospheric food market. Here, locals haggle over fresh produce, fishmongers shout prices, and food stalls churn out bite-sized local specialities at every corner.
Snack your way through:
Cuoppo di mare – a paper cone filled with fried seafood
Frittatina di pasta – deep-fried spaghetti mixed with béchamel and peas
Arancini – rice balls stuffed with ragu or mozzarella
Pizza a portafoglio – folded street pizza you eat on the move
World Locals Tip: Don’t be afraid to eat standing up — or with your hands. Street food in Naples is fast, flavourful and proudly no-frills.
For dessert, grab a babà al rum, a sticky sponge soaked in rum syrup. You’ll find variations everywhere, from classic Neapolitan bakeries to creative versions with cream or fruit.
Take your time here. There’s no rush — only the sound of church bells, buskers, and sizzling oil filling the air around you.
Afternoon: Churches, Funiculars and City Views
After a food-fuelled morning, it’s time to walk (or funicular) it off. Start with a visit to the Naples Cathedral (Duomo di San Gennaro) — an ornate, centuries-old church dedicated to the city’s patron saint. Inside, you’ll find baroque chapels, gilded relics, and the crypt of San Gennaro himself, whose liquefying blood is said to protect the city from disaster.
From there, head up to the Vomero district for a complete change of pace. You can take the Funicolare Centrale from the city centre — it’s a quick, scenic ride that climbs steeply to one of Naples’ most liveable neighbourhoods.
At the top, visit Castel Sant’Elmo, a star-shaped fortress with panoramic views stretching across the entire city, bay and beyond. It’s easily one of the best viewpoints in Naples — ideal for getting a bird’s-eye perspective on where you’ve been.
Next door, the Certosa di San Martino, a former monastery-turned-museum, is quieter but just as impressive. Marble cloisters, frescoed halls and naval exhibits offer a peaceful break from the city buzz below.
On your way back down, wander through the Quartieri Spagnoli — Naples’ most densely packed and expressive neighbourhood. Laundry flutters between buildings, murals honour Maradona, and every corner feels like a film set. It’s raw, real and absolutely essential Naples.
Evening: Sunset, Seafood and Saying Arrivederci
As your final evening sets in, head back down to the coast for one last golden hour. The Lungomare, Naples’ seaside promenade, is pure magic at this time of day. Locals stroll, couples perch on the rocks, and Vesuvius glows softly in the distance. It’s the kind of view that stays with you long after you’ve left.
For your last dinner, lean into the sea. Book a table at Zi Teresa, a waterfront institution near Castel dell’Ovo known for its classic seafood risotto, spaghetti alle vongole and views that need no filter. Prefer somewhere more tucked away? Try Trattoria Castel dell’Ovo or Mimì alla Ferrovia — both time-honoured spots where the recipes haven’t changed in generations.
End the night with a final gelato (you deserve it), a slow stroll back through the softly lit streets, and maybe even one more espresso — yes, at night. This is Naples, after all. Sleep can wait.
Neapolitan streets.
Naples Travel Tips
When to Visit: Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) offer the best weather — sunny, warm, and less chaotic than high summer. July and August can be sweltering, with locals fleeing to the coast.
Getting Around: Naples is a walking city — if you’re brave. Many top sights are within reach on foot, but the metro and funicular system are efficient and inexpensive for longer stretches or uphill climbs.
Safety: Naples has a reputation — but most visits are trouble-free. Pickpocketing can happen in crowded areas (especially on public transport), so keep valuables close and use crossbody bags.
Cash or Card?: Always carry some cash — many traditional eateries and market vendors don’t accept cards.
Local Etiquette: Don’t expect queues. Do expect conversation. Neapolitans are famously expressive and direct — embrace it.
Where to Stay in Naples
Historic Centre – Stay in the heart of the action. Close to major sights, pizza joints, and buzzing nightlife. Look for guesthouses or boutique hotels in restored palazzi.
Chiaia – Elegant and laid-back, perfect for travellers wanting café culture, boutiques, and a quieter base by the sea.
Vomero – Leafy and residential with great views and quick funicular access to the centre. Ideal for a more local feel.
Spanish Quarter – Vibrant and densely packed with character. Not for light sleepers, but full of life.
Recommended stays (all verified as open and operational):
Il Tesoro Smart Suite & SPA – Stylish rooms in the heart of the old town
Hotel Piazza Bellini – Modern comfort in a restored 17th-century building
B&B La Dimora di Parthenope – Friendly, family-run with a sea breeze
What to Pack for 48 Hours in Naples
Comfortable walking shoes – Cobblestones and hills will test your soles
Light layers – Summer days can be hot, but churches often require covered shoulders
Crossbody bag or money belt – Ideal for busy markets and metro journeys
Reusable water bottle – Public fountains (like the historic fontanelle) offer free, fresh drinking water
Plug adapter – Italy uses Type F and L plugs
Camera or extra phone storage – Between the views, street life and pizza, you’ll be taking a lot of photos
Naples from above.
Naples isn’t a city you visit — it’s a city you feel. It’s in the heat rising off cobbled streets, the buzz of scooters cutting through alleyways, the scent of dough and espresso drifting from every corner. In just 48 hours, you’ll peel back layers of history, taste food that defines a culture, and experience a rhythm of life that’s messy, magnetic and totally unforgettable.
Yes, it can be chaotic. But that’s part of the charm. Naples rewards those who lean into its energy — who stray down side streets, strike up conversations, and order one more espresso just because they can. And whether you come for the pizza, the past, or the views of Vesuvius, chances are you’ll leave already planning to return.
This is Naples — raw, real, and ready to surprise you.
